Steam and Pagodas

Myanmar (Burma) 24.11. - 13.12.2008

Sorry, you're too late! Subscribers of the FarRail newsletter know already what happened mid 2008. We needed to change the itinerary. Here is the new plan:

Date Itinerary

24.11.

Outbound flight to Bangkok

25.11.

Arrival in Bangkok and connecting flight to Yangon (Rangoon), visit to the harbour in Yangon, Hotel Yuzana Garden in Yangon

26.11

Flight with Myanma Airways UB 629 from Yangon to Lashio 06.30 – 09. 25 hrs, charter bus to Namtu (ca. 3.5 hours). On our way we’ll stop at a pagoda well over 1,000 years old, which is not covered by even the most detailed guide book. Accommodation in the British style guesthouse of the mine company.

27.11.

Visit to the Namtu Mines Railway: in the morning we’ll take pictures of shunting operations in the area of the railway station and the depot. In the early afternoon we’ll take a charter train up to Lopah. From there we’ll return in one of the round-shaped truck railcars. Accommodation in the guest house of the mine company.

28.11.

In the early morning, before the morning mist has disappeared, we’ll take a charter train to Lopah and continue through the fantastic spiral to Wallah Gorge. If possible we’ll take shots of the electric underground mine railway there. Return by track railcar and accommodation in the guesthouse of the mine.

29.11.

Early morning we’ll go by truck railcar to Wallah Gorge. Here our steam loco is waiting for us. With a short freight train (probably 2 cars) we’ll try our luck on the steep gradient to Bawdwin. We’ll return with our steam charter to Wallah gorge and take (if possible) a loaded ore train from here to Namtu. Guesthouse in Namtu

30.11.

Another time we’ll enjoy a charter train on the section Namtu – Wallah Gorge. This time we’ll start around 8.30am with a freight train.

01.12.

In the morning we’ll take a train of empty ore wagons from Namtu to Mill. From there we’ll continue diesel hauled, but sitting in the salon coach of the railway to Nahsy, where we’ll take our charter bus back to Lashio, motel in Lashio

02.12.

In the early morning we’ll go by Myanma Railways to Namyao. There a diesel charter train is waiting for us to run through the jungle to Nashy. By charter bus we’ll return to our motel in Lashio

03.12.

Flight UB 630 from Lashio 12.55 hrs to Yangon, arrival  15.50, visit to the Shwedagon pagoda (world heritage site) in the late afternoon and evening, hotel in Yangon – or continue with the diesel meter gauge extension

04.12.

Return flight to Bangkok and continue by international flight home.

05.12.

Arrival in Frankfurt/Main in the morning

04.12.

Morning visit to Yangon-Mahlwagon loco shed, Afternoon by charter bus to Bago, Hotel Bago Star

05.12.

Charter bus for linesiding Bago – Mottama, hotel in Moulmein

06.12.

Charter bus for linesiding Mottama – Bago, hotel Bago Star

07.12.

Charter bus for line siding along the main line Bago – Pyuntaza, visit to the depot of Pyuntaza (stored steam locomotives), evening return to Bago

08.12.

Morning linesiding around Bago, afternoon return to Yangon, hotel Yuzana Garden

09.12.

Return flight via Bangkok

10.12.

Morning arrival in Europe


Namtu Mines Railway  15 to 18 participants
£2,210
24.11. – 03.12.2008 Single room supplement
£90
Diesel extension from 8 participants
£346
04.12. – 10.12.2008 Single room supplement
£67

classic Burma shot

On the sold out tour to Burma in December 2007 it became crystal clear that steam would soon find its way into the book of history, sagas and museums sooner rather than later. The only possible way to react to this alarming news is to put another, extended tour to this fascinating country on the tour plan. All fears about the instability of the country have proved to be of no concern, Burma is still one of the best and safest countries in Asia. If you want to see a traditional way of life there is little choice in Asia anymore. But here in Burma it seems that technical as well as political development came to an end decades ago. On the railway you’ll still find manually thrown points on the mainline, British style gantries, signal flag men, token rings, riveted cars with white metal bearings, without a through brake and – most important to us – steam locomotives.

On this tour we’ll cover lines which have never been part of a FarRail Tour program before. We’ve arranged many more charter trains than ever before (Namtu plus 50 %, meter gauge plus 75 %), well knowing that the price of the tour will increase dramatically compared to previous tours. We did this because we know that such superb conditions for train photography will be history in a few years if not even months. Once they’ve dropped the fire in their beautiful locomotives no money of the world will be able to recall the glorious days. It will be definitely too late.

Labamuni Pagoda

The state railway of Myanmar, Myanma Railways (Myanma written without the “r” at the end), is the last state owned railway which still uses steam on the line. What still needs to be written in bold letters is that the new General Manager of the railways has skipped all planned overhauls for steam locomotives. Only a dozen Mikados and Pacifics, built at the end of the 1940’s, are still in use. Because the use of these locos is erratic and depends on the availability of fuel supply we have ordered the use of steam on regular freight trains. We’ll not change the trains themselves, only the traction will be changed from diesel to steam. The trains are without a shadow of a doubt some of the most photogenic trains in Asia.

Namtu

On the spectacular mountain narrow gauge line of the lead and silver mines railway in Namtu there are still two serviceable British steam locomotives available for charter trains. Namtu alone would justify the long way to Myanmar. The complete railway including all technical equipment and its locomotives are running on their very last legs. In Europe officials would have only one “solution” for the line: to shut it down immediately. As a Chinese company has become involved in the production already, it could only be a question of time when this fantastic railway will be closed. Our charter trains will look really authentic. It will be hard to say whether these trains were running in the age of regular steam of the early 1980’s or in 2008.

The press has recently published many very bad reports about the country. Of course, Burma has no democratic government, this has been known for decades, but on our trip we’ll probably not see anything of what has been reported. We’ll meet lovely, welcoming people, we’ll feel the flair of the country which can hardly be described in words. It’s very easy to become a lover of Burma once you have set foot in this rural country!

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Itinerary

Date

Namtu

Itinerary

 

24.11.

Outbound flight to Bangkok

 

25.11.

Arrival in Bangkok and connecting flight to Yangon (Rangoon), visit to the harbour in Yangon, Hotel Yuzana Garden in Yangon

 

26.11

Flight with Myanma Airways UB 629 from Yangon to Lashio 09.30 – 12.25 hrs, charter bus to Namtu (ca. 3.5 hours). On our way we’ll stop at a pagoda well over 1,000 years old, which is not covered by even the most detailed guide book. Accommodation in the British style guesthouse of the mine company.

 

27.11.

Visit to the Namtu Mines Railway: in the morning we’ll take pictures of shunting operations in the area of the railway station and the depot. In the afternoon we’ll take a charter train up to Lopah. From there we’ll return in one of the round-shaped truck railcars. Accommodation in the guest house of the mine company.

 

28.11.

In the early morning, before the morning mist has disappeared, we’ll take a charter train to Lopah and continue through the fantastic spiral to Wallah Gorge. If possible we’ll take shots of the electric underground mine railway there. Return by track railcar and accommodation in the guesthouse of the mine.

 

29.11.

Early morning we’ll go by truck railcar to Wallah Gorge. Here our steam loco is waiting for us. With a short freight train (probably 2 cars) we’ll try our luck on the steep gradient to Bawdwin. We’ll return with our steam charter to Wallah gorge and take (if possible) a loaded ore train from here to Namtu. Guesthouse in Namtu

 

30.11.

In the morning we’ll take a train of empty ore wagons from Namtu to Mill. From there we’ll continue diesel hauled, but sitting in the salon coach of the railway to Nahsy, where we’ll take our charter bus back to Lashio, motel in Lashio

 

01.12.

Early morning charter bus to Mandalay, domestic flight to Yangon, hotel Yuzana Garden in Yangon – or continue with the meter gauge program

 

02.12.

Visit to the Schwedagon Pagoda (world heritage site), afternoon return flight to Bangkok and continue by international flight home.

 

03.12.

Arrival in Frankfurt/Main in the morning

 

01.12.

Early morning charter bus to Mandalay, domestic flight with Yangon Airways HK 722 to Nyaung U 17.25 – 17.55 hrs, charter bus to our hotel in Bagan

30.11.

 

Departure to Bangkok

01.12.

 

Arrival in Bangkok and continue to Yangon (Rangoon), Afternoon continue to Nyaung U by Yangon Airways HK 721 15.45 – 17.55 hrs, charter bus to our hotel in Bagan

02.12.

 

Visit to the amazing pagoda fields of Bagan, hotel in Bagan

03.12.

 

Charter bus to Kyaukpadaung, continue by accelerated passenger train 102, departure 14.20 hrs, scheduled arrival time in Taungdwingyi 18.00 hrs, guesthouse in Taungdwingyi

04.12.

 

We’ll travel on a short regular freight train from Taungdwingyi to Pyinmana. This train will be steam hauled, hotel in the new capital Naypyidaw near Pyinmana

05.12.

 

We’ll take pictures of regular sugar cane trains around Pyinmana (the loading points are: Kantha, Kyidaunggan and Ela), hotel in Naypyidaw

06.12.

 

Today we’ll change the diesel of a regular freight train between Pyinmana and Taungoo. Visit to the depot in Taungoo, accommodation in a simple guesthouse in Taungoo

07.12.

 

Continue with a steam hauled freight train to Pyuntaza. In the evening charter bus to Bago (Pegu), hotel Bago Star

08.12.

 

Visit to the depot in Bago, late morning visit to the tallest pagoda of Bago, Continue to Kayikhto, on the bag of a truck we’ll cover most of the way, but the last 2,5 miles we need to walk up to the famous Golden Rock (porters for luggage available). Hotel Mountain Top.

09.12.

 

After we watched the sunrise from the top of the mountain we’ll walk down to the truck station and continue to Zingyaik, where stones will be loaded on trains. From there we’ll take a steam hauled stone train to Thaton. Motel Mya Nadi in Thaton (one or two black holes category)

10.12.

 

We’ll follow the steam hauled stone train from Thaton to Mokepalin. Motel near Kyaikhto

11.12.

 

Onwards with our steam hauled stone train to Bago. We hope to reach Bago in the afternoon sun. Evening by charter bus to Yangon, hotel Yuzana Garden in Yangon

12.12.

 

Brief visit to the workshop in Yangon Insein, where steam locomotives used to be overhauled (nowadays diesel). Optional visit to the Schwedagon Pagoda (world heritage site), Afternoon return flight to Bangkok and continue home by international flight.

13.12.

 

Arrival in Europe in the morning

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Line description

Bago (the town was previously known as Pegu) has the main shed for steam locomotives. There are two lines served, the first of which heads to Mottama, southeast of Bago. Initially it is flat but not without photographic potential. Beyond the bridge over the Sittaung river (photography prohibited), hills appear. At Mokpalin, there is a small, barely used shed with a turntable. Locos can take water here and minor repairs are still possible. The entrance to the depot is framed by a nice bridge over the railway. Further down, the railway comes closer and closer to the mountains and between Thaton and Mottama the line becomes quite spectacular. There are no steep gradients, but the scenery is outstanding, especially in the afternoon with the light from the "right" side. Mottama itself has a small loco shed. Beside the regular passenger train, sometimes freight trains run along the line to Yinnein or to one of the other quarries nearby.

lucky picks

We’ve ordered (and paid for) steam to haul a stone train. Despite handing the money over, there is no absolute guarantee of steam power for the days concerned. During the recent tours nearly everything worked just the way we had requested, although we couldn’t positively guarantee anything beforehand. From the experience of the last trips, the chances of having steam are close to 100 %. The railway was very cooperative.

You might wonder why we’ll spend so much money for an afternoon train for just the section from Zingyaik to Thaton. The reason is around Yinnyein are some of the best positions of the whole line, so this way we’ll make sure not to miss these positions in the best light and have chartered an afternoon stone train. The extra money will be a worthwhile investment.

stone train to the quarries

Between Taungdwingyi and Pyinmana the line passes a hilly section which should offer some good photographic potential. Because of the lack of a through train brake and the gradient on the line our train will be only short.  Only the locomotive is equipped with a vacuum brake which works on the driving wheels only. Around Pyinmana there are several sugar cane fields. The farmers will deliver their sugar cane to the loading points in Kantha in the west, Kyidaunggan in the north and Ela in the south. From there it goes over the state railway to the sugar mill near Pyinmana. The small depot of Pyinmana hosts two steam locomotives for these duties, one 4-6-2- class YC and one 2-8-2- class YD. Unfortunately the sugar cane trains are used to run during the most uninspiring time of the day: either around noon when the sun is too high for taking good photographs and videos or after sunset. Se we need to pay here as well, to re-schedule the trains. The line to the northern and southern loading points is the double tracked main line Yangon – Mandalay. Beside a bridge over a tiny gorge just at the northern end of the station of Pyinmana the line towards Kyidaunggan is rather uninteresting. The other two lines are much more interesting with a little but extraordinary shaped pagoda and a girder bridge on the way to Ela and a forest of palm threes on the way to the west. At the moment it’s not possible to say on which line we’ll have sugar cane trains, this depends on the availability of sugar cane. By the way, there are no visible remains of the former 2 ft gauge sugar cane line to Ela.

main line steam service

The line Pyinmana – Taungoo – Pyuntaza is part of the double tracked main line. It’s entirely flat but crosses some small rivers, passes along pagodas and rural villages, bamboo huts and huge rain trees. Opportunities for good videos and photographs are quite plenty. To get the best results we’ll sometimes chase the train by bus and sometimes ride in the crew’s wagon in the train.

It’s not possible to guarantee the use of steam in front of regular trains.

beyond Swa

near Taungoo

Namtu is the head quarters of the Burma Mines Railways. The Namtu area is restricted owing to fighting between government troops and local tribes. Fortunately, for the last few years it has been possible to get a permit to visit Namtu while travelling in government-organized groups. The 2 feet gauge railway runs from Bawdwin via Namtu to Namyao on the Mandalay - Lashio branch of Myanmar Railways. Silver and lead ore are carried to the smelter at Namtu. Steam was largely replaced in the 1970s and 1980s and today only two steam locos remain in working order. One is Bagnall 2-6-2 no. 42, built in 1928 and the other is Kerr Stuart 0-4-2T no. 13, built in 1914. Both are available to haul special trains along this exciting mountain railway. Beside these two serviceable steam locos, there is a recently opened small museum in Namtu with four further preserved locomotives. The railway also has some very interesting rolling stock and the shed is very picturesque. The rail-trucks or rail-lorries are delightful “critters” in themselves and are a unique feature of the railway. The line is spectacular with hairpin bends, a spiral with a 540-degree curve, two reversals, rural villages, pagodas and steep mountains. The photographic potential is exceptional, so be prepared and bring plenty of film or extra memory cards! In the morning usually one can experience some steam exhaust.

beyond mill

The spectacular 540 degrees curve is just before Wallah Gorge. The line is to Bawdwin is extraordinary exciting with reversals, hairpin bends and mountain views. We try to go by steam from Wallah Gorge to Bawdwin, which hasn’t happened for more than two decades! This part is almost exclusively served by lorry railcars and only a very few trains will go as far as Bawdwin. On our December trip 2007 we derailed seriously and it can not be guaranteed that the track will support our loco this time. However, we’ll try it, and on this breathtaking part of the Namtu Mines Railway, which doesn’t need to take second place behind the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, we’ll make many runpasts and photo stops. For our trains we’ll use both serviceable steam locomotives. Due to the technical condition of the locomotives (and the line) it can’t be guaranteed that a certain locomotive will be able to steam up. But it will not get any better the longer you wait to go there! FarRail Tours donated much money already for overhaul of no. 13 which has not been serviceable in 2007. Most of the money donated in 2007 disappeared in the pockets of some officials of the mine administration, the funding in 2008 will be monitored by our partner in Myanmar to find the way right to the locomotive.

If you want to come with the group to Namtu, then we will need your personal and passport details at least three months in advance, to secure the permit.

Bagan

Despite the very dense steam railway program we could include some of the most remarkable tourist spots of the country. As soon as the political situation changes the use of steam will be history (it will be history soon even under the current political situation), but you’ll never get another chance as well to see these ancient pagodas and other sights without being bothered by herds of other tourists. We’ll see almost only domestic pilgrims to the holy places, a situation similar to what Asia used to be before it became one of the main tourism epicentres. At many places we’ll see almost no aggressive vendors as there usually is at many tourist places all over Asia. So enjoy visiting over 1,000 or even 2,000 years old cultural sights to get an unspoiled impression of the culture of the country. The Golden Rock is one of the centres of pilgrims. It is said that the rock at the very edge of the mountain top only balances because of a hair of Buddha which is inside the rock. The cultural visits have another reason: they’ll give us some quiet moments in our very ambitious programme of railway activities, where we’ll always try to use the early morning and the late evening light to get the best possible shots. It’s possible that we need to get up already a 4am occasionally to get the best results in photography and videography. However, at 6pm it’s dark, so we can get to the hotel quite early. Keep in mind that we’re not going to Burma to spend the day at a pool in the hotel, we want to see as much as possible. We want to experience something which is very close to its expiry date.

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Small Print

Some difficulties have to be mentioned. Timekeeping is not as important as in Europe or North America. Given this, the scheduled times are a declaration of intent by Myanma Railways and delays of several hours are not unusual.

rural mode of transport

Steam locos of Myanma Railways are oil fired and fuel supplies are variable. You should be warned that sometimes steam locos can be replaced by a diesel. We will try to ensure that no fuel shortage will affect our tour but we can't guarantee it. Myanma Railways bought some Indian diesel locomotives in 2000, so there is no longer a lack of diesel power and Myanma Railways can now survive without their steamers. It's only a question of time before the black beauties are retired. In the not too distant future, it will be impossible to experience real steam trains any more and only charter trains will remain. Although the railways agreed to serve our requests it may be necessary to change the itinerary without notice to co-ordinate our tour with the available steam trains.

In December 2007 Myanma Railways reported eight YD (2-8-2), three YC (4-6-2) and one YB (4-6-2) as serviceable. We’ll do our best to have all operable classes represented if at all possible.

The technical condition of the railway and its equipment is not suitable to guarantee anything. It might be possible that some parts of the programme can not be operated as planned and need to be skipped without replacement or compensation. Paid money will not be refunded by any of the Burmese officials or railways, even if they couldn’t offer what we have paid for. However, we don’t expect serious difficulties in this matter, on all the recent tours the contractors in Burma tried very hard to fulfil all our wishes. There have been freight trains on the Myanma Railways which might have been the only trains the whole week which have been exactly on time because we chartered them.

Bamboo-sunrise

Charter buses (mostly with air conditioning), airplanes and trains represent the standard of our host countries, which may seriously deviate form European expectations. While we will try to avoid long walks, some photo positions may require a bit of an extra effort. The itinerary is designed especially for photographers and video filmmakers. To make the most out of it we may change our route or hotels/guesthouses without any notice in advance. We’ll be in close contact with the Bago train control to get information about scheduled steam trains.

The standard of the hotels in smaller places is far below a Polish youth hostel. Please be prepared. To give the room type of small guesthouses a rating, we extended the category-system of how to rate hotel’s service and comfort - Taungoo is rated with two black holes. It could be rated one black hole according to the tiny rooms and beds, all clean and tidy, but the facilities are of doubtful quality.

The accommodation in Namtu is another matter. We’ll sleep in the nice, old wooden guesthouse of the mine administration. While rooms are large and nice, the facilities seem to be as old as the railway (they are not). Toilets have a water flush, but the installation seems to be from imperial days. Anyhow, the people are very gracious and welcoming and give you the best service they possibly can. It is a unique experience to get up in the morning to the sound of tropical birds, seeing fog around the hills below our guesthouse, and hearing the first whistle sound from one of our steam locomotives from down the valley. All who have stayed in the Namtu guesthouse enjoyed it immensely and lack of comfort was never an issue.

After you have seen and felt the quality of the roads you’ll understand why we don’t go long distances just to get to a better hotel.

Headload

Please note that morning trains have a higher priority than a breakfast in the hotel. So breakfast will be served as a packed box if necessary. Lunch and dinner are planned according to the situation of steam trains timetable. If necessary we’ll buy some papayas, bananas and oranges instead of risking missing some good pictures by a time-consuming restaurant stop. Excellent lunches, with local fruit and rice and curries are usually available in the small stations along the railway too. Beverages are not included in the tour price.

Please bear in mind that accommodation and transportation in Burma fall short of EU and North American safety standards. Always use common sense when crossing roads and railway tracks. For instance, if you can’t walk on dark streets in the night please take a strong torch with you. FarRail Tours cannot be held responsible and will not accept any liability whatsoever in the case of any accident or damage. We suggest you take out a comprehensive overseas accident and health insurance policy.

beyond Junction

We recommend that you take some US dollars with you. Airport taxes and visa fees are payable in US Dollars. To change some money at the airport for souvenirs or beverages, other currencies like British Pounds are ok as well. With about $250 US you should easily be able to cover all expenses.

Charging rechargeable batteries in the hotels is not a problem. Sometimes there’s a power cut, and the hotel’s generator set is not able to deliver the same voltage as the country’s network. Therefore recharging batteries can take a longer time than usual. However, no one missed a picture on the recent trips because of a battery problem.

Registration period ends Juli 10th, 2008.

Bookings after this date will be accepted, of course, but it might be impossible to organise a permit for Namtu and/or a reasonable priced flight.

Despite some difficulties we might face you’ll be positively surprised by this lovely country, and its friendly and welcoming people.

Lopah

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Price

Tips are already included in the tour price.

Namtu Mines Railway 15 to 18 participants £2,040
24.11. – 03.12.2008 10 to 14 participants £2,280
  Single room supplement £80
Metre gauge Steam  15 to 25 participants £2,320
01.12. - 13.12.2007 10 to 14 participants £2.680
  Single room supplement £170
Steam and Pagodas 15 to 25 participants £3.640
24.11. - 13.12.2008 10 to 14 participants £4.230
  Single room supplement £250

Minimum Number of Participants: 10
Maximum Number of Participants: 25

The price includes:

Not included are:

Prices are based on special booking classes for the airline. Your early booking is hence appreciated.

Pyabwe

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